A Micro Trend We Love : The Silk Scarf

The History of the Silk Scarf

The history of the silk scarf is infinitely connected with ancient China, where silk was first discovered over 5,000 years ago. According to Chinese legends, we can trace the oldest remnants of silk to Zhejiang province. Discovered by accident, the story goes that one day, Queen His-Ling-Shih of the Yellow Empire, was drinking tea beneath a mulberry tree when suddenly, a silkworm cocoon fell into her teacup. Spellbound by the shiny silken threads that began to unravel within her cup, she appointed a team - under her supervision - to collect the threads and spin them in specially crafted looms to weave the delicate material.

Credited for the beginnings of sericulture in China, the Queen is known as the deity of silk, a fabric so valuable, it was initially used to clothe only the imperial families. During the Sui dynasty for example, restrictions were placed on the wearing of silk - only the Emperor could wear yellow silk, whilst peasants were unable to wear it altogether. 

The silk scarf itself was used to signify rank and prestige - in 230BC, Chinese soldiers wore the scarf to indicate their military rank, with higher-ranking officials receiving silk scarves, while lower ranking soldiers received cotton scarves.

The Ripple Effect

Whilst the knowledge of silk production up to this point had been a closely held secret, China dominated world trade, providing fine fabrics around the world. And with a fabric so delicate it could be passed through a ring, silk soon became a much sought after fabric. As the exportation of silk grew, travelling from China to Rome, the trade route known as The Silk Road was born!

Of course, as trade continued, the once closely held secrets of silk-making reached other parts of the world, and as migrants moved and settled abroad, production began elsewhere.

Later, the silk scarf became popular not only amongst aristocrats, but also among ordinary people in China and across Asia. In India, for example, silk scarves were used as symbols of femininity and beauty, whilst in Japan, a traditional silk scarf  (called "furoshiki") was, and still is, used as a convenient way to carry items.

From Fabric to Fashion

As we continue through the pages of history, it's easy to find references of both silk and the silk scarf being worn as a fashion piece. The first being Queen Nefertiti who is thought to have worn a silk scarf beneath her famous flat topped headdress. Roman Emperor Heliogabus loved silk so much, he wore nothing but robes made from silk, owning more than 3000. In fact, some sources even blame the collapse of the Roman Empire on the importation of silks as well as other precious materials from the East. The apparent constant drain of silver was a result of their love of these goods.

Even Beethoven, whose portrait is shown as wearing a bold red silk scarf, is rumoured to have worn the piece in order to woo musician Therese Malfatti. In fact, the 18th Century saw the beginning of the use of the silk scarf as an accessory. Men and women alike wore neckerchiefs, irrespective of social class. Queen Victoria herself ascended the throne in 1837 wearing a silk scar and during her reign, it became a symbol of luxury.

The revolution and popularity of the silk scarf only increased when luxury leather house Hermes began to produce decorative silk scarves. Having dealt with the production of bridles and harnesses until that point, the importation of Chinese silk, allowed the designer to immerse themselves in the luxury goods sector with scarves twice as strong as any other fabric at the time.

Post World War II, more companies sought to capitalise on this market, with the likes of Liberty of London beginning production. Prints were bold and colourful - providing much needed levity and positivity post-war.

Since their debut in 1937, Hermes have produced over 2,000 silk scarf designs from their factory outside Lyon. But the allure extends way beyond the celebrity and Royalty who wear their pieces. A single scarf takes a full 18 months to complete, making it one of the most meticulously-crafted accessories in the world. Artists hand-design each individually and once the design is complete, it is brought to a factory in France, where it is individually screen-printed - a process that can take up to 6 months to complete. On average, each scarf has 27 distinct colours and is made from the silk of 250 mulberry moth cocoons.